The Killing Fields

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat are the link to Cambodia's ancient past. Phnom Penh and the Killing Fields are Cambodia's link to its more recent past.


About 10 miles outside of Phnom Penh is one of the over 300 mass graves that were used by the Khmer Rouge to exterminate doctors, lawyers, teachers, and pretty much any kind of intellectual or dissenter. Between 1975 and 1979 Cambodia's population was cut in half from 6 million to 3 million. 1 million escaped to neighboring countries another 2 million died in Cambodia's social cleansing with most disposed of in the killing fields.

Below is the mausoleum erected to remember those who were killed by the Khmer Rouge. Our tour guide began by telling us Pol Pot and his cronies "were very bad men. They killed my parents." Ouch!


The Magic Tree. The sign below says that loud speakers were hung from this tree and music was played to drown out the screams of those being executed.


It's not very clear in the picture, but the white "stones" in the ground are actually bones that have worn into the walkway.


You may be able to save this picture and expand it to get a little more history from the Killing Fields.


Just as notorious as the Killing Fields is the Toul Sleng prison. Originally, it was a government school, but the Khmer Rouge used it as jail/ torture chamber to "handle" those that they considered traitors. I didn't take a picture, but one of the most vivid memories is the wall of portraits taken to document those who were killed here - men, women, and children.

In case you're a psychopath - no smiling or laughing allowed.

The regulations of incarceration.

#3 Don't be fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart the revolution

#6 While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all

#10 If you disobey any point of my regulation you shall get either 10 lashes or 5 shocks of electric discharge

Cambodian Royal Palace

We arrived in Phnom Penh in the early afternoon and had some time to kill, so we did a walk about and stopped by the Cambodian Royal Palace. Because I know Nuch will read this, the Thai Royal Palace (Wat Pra Gaew) is much more impressive.


This looked like a Sunday school lesson inside one of the many temples on the Royal Palace grounds.


The famous wall-less temple, which allows the moonlight to shine through.

Not the Royal Palace, but outside the National Museum, which is next door.

Angkor - Phnom Penh River Trip

The distance between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh is only a couple hundred miles, but there's no easy way to get there. Roads are bad and plane tickets expensive, so we chose to go by boat. It takes a bit longer, but the sights along the way are well worth the trip. Not that there was anything spectacular, but it was an interesting way to see the Cambodian countryside and life along the river.

Atop the "speed" boat.

Some pictures along the way.

This boat came out to pick up passengers that got off about half way to Phnom Penh.

Be sure to use the bathroom at your hotel before you begin this 6 hour river journey.


Here's a quick video.

Temple Of The Sun

After visiting Angkor Wat and the Temple of Trees in the morning, we visited a few more temples in the afternoon and finished the day with a view of the sunset from atop the Temple of the Sun.

These stone soldiers lined the sides of the bridge that led into Angkor City. Apparently, over a million people once lived there - back in 1300 AD.

Here are some of the stone statues that you may be more familiar with courtesy of Lara Croft - Tomb Raider.

Once again, every free space was filled with carvings. This one told the story of the battle between Cambodia and Vietnam circa. a long time ago.


Although Cambodia has its own currency, the preferred form of payment is US dollars - even the Buddha prefers a greenback.

Tourists gathered atop the Temple of the Sun to watch the sunset.

Temple Of Trees

Unlike Angkor Wat which was cleared and renovated, this temple (can't remember the name) was left as the French found it 100 years ago.

When the Angkor kingdom was abandoned nature took back what was once its own. Although most of the temple is intact, a large portion has been torn apart by the massive roots of these Banyan? trees.

Angkor Wat

Wouldn't you know - we get all the way to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat and it's under construction. That's like going to Disney World and not being able to go on Space Mountain.


Actually, it was still impressive - just the photo ops from far off left a little to be desired. In addition, our guide told us that it's always under construction - or under repair. So, you have to be pretty lucky to come at a time when at least some portion of the temple is not shrouded in scaffolding.

We made due. Here's a famous picture of the Angkor Wat reflecting pool.

I tried to get some pictures with the tree hiding the scaffolding, but it didn't really work. Beautiful place, nonetheless.

This area was used for collecting water.

Almost every wall was filled with stories from the Ramayana carved into the stone. Unfortunately, I forget most of the details, but this one depicts the 'Churning the Sea of Milk'. You'll have to google that for more details. This was just one half of the mural. All together something like 100 meters long.

This is Apsara, the celestial goddess of dance. She was everywhere.

Proof that I was there.

Dr. Fish - Fish Massage

While looking through one of the local Angkor Wat travel magazines left in our hotel room, I found an advertisement for Dr. Fish - Fish Massage.

It may not be worth a trip to Siem Reap in its own right, but if Dr. Fish comes to your town, be sure to pay him a visit.



This video tells it all.

Apparently, the fish are supposed to be eating the bacteria off your feet that normal soap and a little elbow grease can't get at. I'm not sure how true that is, but it does feel like they're getting at some microscopic callouses, sinking their minnow teeth into them and trying to take some crusty skin home. Far from painful, it's initially titillating and after a few minutes, quite soothing. Once again, a must do if you get the chance.

On The Town - Siem Reap

Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are in the city of Siem Reap. About 5 years ago, I went there for a business trip. At the time, I remember there being one hotel and a few small restaurants.

Things have changed quite a bit since then, as the Cambodian government has tried to capitalize on the income from tourists wanting to visit one of the 7 Ancient Wonders of the world. The entire town is geared towards tourism and it has become a nice place to visit (for reasons in addition to its already famous temples).

Here's my mom at a handicraft night bazaar in one of the tree-lined parks.



Kids playing in the park.

Almost everyone got around on bicycles.

In Thailand, these trees would have been cut down and made into chopsticks.


In Cambodia, they make great shade for an afternoon stroll. They also house monster, dog-sized bats!

You can almost make them out hanging upside down from the bare branch in the middle.

Here are some pictures from the Old Market and Pub Street. Although there are some local, Cambodian restaurants, most serve western food. We ate Italian both nights - and, as it turned out, from the same restaurant.